How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 1: Motion Sensing

0:05
welcome to how to make an owl bot the bird Intimidator this is part one of the
0:11
albot project the albot will be a device that can be used as a bird intimidation tool
0:19
to scare away pesky birds or other creatures in your yard around the house
0:24
or Barn at restaurants or in trees bushes and Gardens hence the phrase the
0:30
bird
0:40
Intimidator this that you see here is a 16inch
0:46
long plastic great horned owl and we're going to use this plastic owl as the
0:57
body or structure of our albot project so that part will be done for
1:04
us I found this one on Amazon these work fine I suppose to
1:13
scare away uh creatures around uh your
1:19
property uh you see these quite often when you go to restaurants I was just at a restaurant the other day and saw a few
1:27
of these in an attempt to scare away birds from creating nests around the
1:34
building but uh having this plastic owl staring off
1:42
into space contemplating its life decisions isn't quite what I'm looking for as a bird
1:52
intimidation Tool uh I needed something that uh had a little more POS
1:59
zzz to it had a little more animation to it and I figured that well I can add a
2:07
few things to this plastic owl in order to make it uh a little more a little bit
2:13
more intimidating to the creatures around the property in order to try to make it a little bit more effective than
2:19
just staring at nothing so what I plan on doing is uh to
2:30
add a pier sensor to this plastic owl in order for it to be able to to to detect
2:37
motion and when motion is detected I want it to make owl sounds through an
2:43
MP3 player and a couple of speakers and I
2:49
also wanted to perform various movements obviously
2:54
this thing is a rigid structure its wings are not going to move its head's
3:00
not going to move but we can add a few things to it to help create some movement and we'll do that later on and
3:08
in other steps uh in in the series of this build and uh later on I also wanted to
3:17
of course I want to add some lights to this thing so we'll eventually add a
3:22
couple of red LEDs somewhere around the eyes to have some kind of a red Flash in
3:30
eye effect when motion is detected to help deter uh creatures from building
3:36
their homes or nests around certain areas of the property so this is what
3:42
we're going to use as the owl for the owl bot and I'm going to put it off to the
3:49
side here and you can see in front of you here that I
3:55
have the uh
4:00
items that we will be using for part one of this build for motion
4:06
sensing you can see right here in the middle that we have an Arduino Uno and we're going to use the Arduino to Help
4:14
Us control things like this pier sensor that you can see here and that's all
4:20
we're working on uh for part one is just the motion sensing so we're going to need this uh
4:28
USB cable this one came with the Arduino uh everybody has seen the types
4:35
of USB cables that they come with in order to attach the Arduino to the
4:41
computer to uh upload the code to the microchip we'll also need a breadboard
4:51
this is an 830 point breadboard it's if it's uh preferable to use one of these
4:57
over a 400 point breadboard like this one this is a smaller
5:03
breadboard we want a little bit bigger because we're going to be adding more
5:10
items as we move along in the project uh we're going to need a 9volt
5:18
battery as our power source to power the Arduino need a couple of jumper wires
5:24
these are maleo male jumper wires and need some uh
5:30
male to female jumper wires for the pins on the pier sensor right
5:39
here and in order to connect power or the 9volt battery power we're going to
5:46
need a 9vt battery uh snap
5:52
connector and also one of these uh 12vt
5:58
Jack uh adapters that has the screw terminals on it and that is to be able to install
6:08
these wires from the 9volt battery snap connector to the uh DC adapter here in
6:18
order to provide oops in order to provide power to the Arduino with the 9vt battery later
6:27
on now you could use this setup
6:35
with this adapter and this battery snap connector or you can use and this the
6:42
these two are what I used uh in the description in the steps on
6:49
the website and what I'll be using through this video series for the build
6:55
uh I'll be using these uh cuz these are a little more common but you
7:01
can also use a battery snap connector like this with an adapter on the end of
7:07
it already so all you need to do is just snap your 9vt battery to this and go
7:15
ahead and plug it into that that's easier than uh
7:20
using these I mean this is not difficult you just screw the wires into the
7:26
terminals there but you can use this op option if you'd like it doesn't really
7:33
matter it's up to you for this project I'm not going to be
7:40
using a a generic breadboard such as
7:45
this one I am going to be
7:51
using the ultimate DIY 3220 point
7:57
breadboard that we made in a previous project and if you have not made this or
8:06
you don't have one uh and would like to make one for yourself I'll put the links in the
8:14
description down below in order for you to uh try out this project and you can
8:20
build this it's not difficult at all I give a complete set of instructions on
8:25
our website and I have a complete video series
8:30
on how to build this ultimate DIY 3220 point
8:36
breadboard but if you don't have one of these don't worry you can still use a generic 830 Point breadboard
8:44
such as this one and complete this project just fine but as I said I'm
8:50
going to be using this it's a little easier it has a built-in 9vt battery
8:55
supply with inside this case and all I need to do is make connections to the uh
9:03
binding post here to provide 9volt power to my uh breadboard and flip the switch
9:10
in order to provide that 9vt battery power supply to my breadboard so it's a
9:16
little easier than making these kind of connections and having to use that so
9:21
that's what I'm going to be using so now I just need to move this
9:27
stuff out of the way so now we can go ahead and get started
9:32
on step one connecting 9vt power to the breadboard so as I said I'm using this
9:41
uh ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard it has the built-in 9volt battery power
9:49
supply that power supply comes from these two terminal or binding posts here
9:55
so all I need to do is I need to take a red jumper wire
10:01
and a black jumper wire and make my connections these are male to male jumper
10:08
wires and I'm going to take my red one and I'm going to make or
10:16
insert this male end of this end of the jumper wire into
10:25
the red binding post
10:30
and tighten that down to secure it in
10:40
there and now I'm going to take my black jumper wire and take one end
10:46
of the jumper wire and insert it into the black binding
10:54
post so this is my negative of the supply the black binding
11:02
post and then my positive Supply or my positive 9vt Supply is this red binding
11:09
post so I'm going to take the red jumper wire that I have connected to the red binding post for my 9vt battery supply
11:18
and I'm going to place it into a positive rail
11:23
for my power rail my upper power rails up here I placed it in this
11:30
positive uh rail here so this rail is
11:36
connected and now I'm placing the black jumper wire onto the negative rail
11:43
here now it's only connected up to half of
11:49
these uh points here half of the rail so in order to connect this other half I'll
11:55
need to install some jumper wires here uh
12:01
later I can go ahead and do that now I'm just taking whatever jumper wire
12:09
I have and I'm connecting that jumper wire
12:16
across the center section here in order to connect both sides of the positive
12:24
power supply on the power or on the positive rail there
12:29
and I'll take another one in this case I'll just take a blue jumper wire and
12:35
I'll connect the negative rail like so so now the negative Supply
12:43
rail is connected all the way down all the way throughout on the negative
12:50
side and just to show you I will hold it
12:56
up like this so we can see what we got going on so
13:05
far so that's step one complete so if you were
13:11
using just a generic 830 Point breadboard all you would need to do is
13:18
have your breadboard set aside and take your 9vt
13:25
battery and your battery snap connector and all you need to do for this step is
13:32
just install your battery snap connector to your battery like so that's all you
13:37
need to do for right now for step one moving on to step two setting up the
13:45
Arduino for power so for this step we need
13:51
our DC uh adapter with the screw terminals
14:01
and I need two jumper wires a red one and a black one in this
14:10
case I'm going to take my oh by the way these are also male to male jumper
14:16
wires they have the pins on each end I'm going to take the red one and I'm going
14:23
to take one end and insert it into
14:29
the you can see that there's a positive and a negative label for these two
14:35
different terminals here I'm going to take my red jumper wire and I'm going to place it
14:43
inside the positive terminal there and I'm going
14:49
to take I have a flathead screwdriver here it'll take it'll accept Flathead or
14:56
uh Phillips for this for the kind I have
15:02
here and then I'm going to just tighten it
15:08
down just snug enough where it's not going to come out of there so that's the first
15:15
one now I'm going to take the black jumper wire and
15:23
place one end of it into the negative side or the negative terminal and again
15:31
just take my oops I'm going to take my flathead screwdriver and tighten it
15:44
down and that's ready to go you can see
15:51
here the black on the negative and the red on the
15:57
positive so next next all I need to do is
16:03
take the red the other end of the red jumper wire on my DC power adapter here
16:11
and place it in the positive rail in line with
16:18
this red jumper wire going to my 9vt battery uh Supply the red binding post
16:25
here and I'll take the black jumper wire and place it in the negative power rail
16:33
that goes to this black jumper wire going to the black binding post for the 9vt battery uh power supply
16:41
here and that's all we need to do for step two for setting up the Arduino for
16:50
power again if you're using an 830 Point Bread Board like this
16:56
and not the ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard you have your 9vt battery and
17:05
9vt battery snap connector uh installed on the battery already from step one and
17:12
all you would do is take the red and black wire from the battery snap
17:19
connector and attach it just like we did uh here you'd take the red wire and
17:28
uh install it on the positive side screw terminal and then you'd take the black
17:33
wire and install it on the uh negative side screw terminal just as we did here
17:41
for the jumper wires so now we're moving on to step
17:47
three setting up 5vt power for the Arduino so for this step we need our our
17:54
doino Uno and again we need a couple more
18:00
jumper wires I have a red and black jumper wire again these are M to male
18:06
ends or male to male jumper wires what we need to do is take our red
18:14
jumper wire take one end of the jumper wire and we're going
18:23
to place it into the the 5 vol
18:29
supply of the Arduino so I'm going to take
18:35
this and insert it into the
18:40
5vt pin there on the Arduino and now I'm going to take the
18:46
black jumper wire and place one end on one of these grounds here there's two
18:52
different ones I'm just going to place it into the one next to the 5vt supply of the
19:00
Arduino just like so and
19:08
then I'm just going to take the red jumper wire the other end of the red jumper wire and I'm going to place it
19:17
in one of the points on the positive rail here I'm
19:27
just choosing the D through this far left side here so I'm
19:32
using this positive rail here and I'm going to take the other end
19:39
of the black jumper wire and I'm going to place it next to the red jumper wire
19:45
there but on the negative Supply on the power rail
19:53
here again these this uh this side of the power rail
19:59
this side of the power rail here is isolated from this side so again we'll
20:05
need to make a couple of connections using jumper wires as we did here in
20:10
order to connect the full length for both sides of the positive
20:16
and negative Supply on this power rail here on this far left breadboard so I'm just going to
20:24
choose I'll choose another yellow jumper wire here you can choose whatever color you want and I'm
20:30
going to place it onto the positive
20:38
side and I will
20:44
take all I have is another blue one another blue jumper wire and I will
20:50
place this one on the negative rail I'll just keep it consistent with this other
20:56
one here so I have the blue one on the negative and the yellow one on the positive for
21:04
this power rail here so now
21:09
the negative rail for this power rail here
21:14
on this breadboard on the left side is completely connected and the positive
21:20
power rail here is completely connected all the way throughout and I will show
21:27
you a closeup here that's all we did we just made the connections there let me move these out
21:34
of the way so you can see better so now these NE this negative and
21:41
positive power rail Supply here is completely connected throughout and I will all I did was
21:48
place the red on the positive side and the black jumper wire on the negative side like so just like that
21:58
so now the Arduino is set up for power we have the 9vt
22:09
power supply hooked up ready to go on this power rail we have the power set up
22:16
for the Arduino the 9vt power that we'll use when we plug into the Arduino here
22:21
to power the Arduino and we're we've also got our 5vt supply from the Arduino
22:29
distributed to the positive and negative power rails on this far left side uh
22:36
breadboard here and we're going to use that 5vt Supply coming from the Arduino
22:43
for the uh Pier sensor that we will prepare next for step
22:50
four and again if you're using an 830 point breadboard and your 9volt battery
22:57
like this all you're going to do is you're going to do the same with your jumper wires
23:05
the red on the 5vt the black on the ground and instead of on this board
23:11
you're just going to connect it to let's say the positive and negative
23:18
Supply on the breadboard just like this so that's all
23:24
you would need to do for now
23:31
but since I'm using the ultimate DIY 3220 Point breadboard
23:40
mine is connected to it just like
23:49
that so now we're at step four connecting the pier
23:56
sensor so the here sensor this is an HC
24:04
sr501 and I explain it on the
24:09
website uh how the connections are on this and how it
24:15
works what we'll do is we'll remove the Fresno lens off of the piure
24:21
sensor so we can clearly see the pin labeled the pin labels here we can
24:30
see the VCC here that's our positive power we have an out pin in the middle
24:37
here and we have the ground pin on the right side here so if I flip it over this
24:45
way we can see the pins exposed there and what I'm going to do is I'm
24:53
going to take a red jumper wire this is a
24:59
female or a male to female jumper wire you can see the female end here and the
25:05
male end with the pin right here I'm going to take the female
25:10
end and I'm going to place it on the VCC
25:19
pin like so next I'm going to take a yellow male
25:25
to female jumper and I'm going to take the female end and
25:31
install it or insert it onto the out
25:38
pin and then I'm going to take the black jumper wire here it's
25:46
also a male to female I'm going to take the female end and I'm going to place it onto the
25:55
ground pin like so
26:03
as I mentioned previously I put up a description on these uh HC sr501 Pier
26:11
Sensors how they work uh what the knobs here are for and what the jumper wire
26:17
here is for and uh other explanations on this type of Pier sensor um I'll briefly
26:26
just discuss it here uh this this is a pier sensor Pier stands for Passive
26:31
infrared sensor like we said there's the
26:36
VCC or positive Power Pin we have the out pin which is uh the uh signal pin
26:45
that will send a signal to the Arduino in this case for our project on when
26:51
motion is detected and of course we have our ground pin here the Power Pin or VCC
26:59
pin has a wide range of input voltages it's uh anywhere between I think it's 4
27:06
volts and 12 volts uh it's recommended that we use 5 volts on it so that's
27:12
where our 5vt source comes from is from the Arduino that we just hooked up to our um
27:21
breadboard here so we'll make our connection for 5 Vols used the Arduino
27:29
to the pier sensor or the pier sensor to the Arduino the output
27:35
pin here the middle pin uh it's a 3.3 TTL logic so it can be
27:43
used with any microcontroller platform such as the Arduino like we're using here uh the
27:50
raspberry uh pck microcontroller arm and the
27:56
851 uh we'll be using like I said the Arduino Uno for this
28:01
project we also have the ground pin and of course that allows us for
28:08
connecting to the ground of the circuit and this is something we must
28:15
do if we turn it over this little yellow plastic piece here is actually a jumper
28:22
wire I don't know if you can see but there's a little piece of metal here that's
28:27
connected AC across these two terminals there so there's a connection made from a pin here to jump across to a pin
28:36
here if I remove it we can see the pins underneath so this just makes a jump
28:44
between those two pins and I currently have it in the L
28:49
position you can see the [Music] L
28:55
right right there there's an and there's also an H position right there that's if
29:03
the center pin and this pin right there were connected or the jumper was on
29:09
those two pins but like I said I have it in the L position the L position uh when the
29:17
jumper wire is in the L position it locks the uh High signal to
29:23
approximately 2 minutes this is the position that we're going to set for this project uh what this means is that
29:31
when motion is detected it sets or it's set in a single trigger
29:36
mode meaning that when something crosses the path of the sensor here when this
29:44
Fresno lens is on when something crosses the path of
29:49
the sensor it triggers it and it locks
29:57
it to the on or high output position for approximately 2 minutes so any motion doesn't reset the
30:05
the timer again it just means that when it's in the L position when the jumper
30:10
is in the L position uh and the pier sensor is working when something crosses
30:16
the path the timer is set to 2 minutes and no matter if something's Crossing
30:21
that path that 2 minutes continues to count down uh so any motion doesn't
30:27
reset that that time now if we were to set this jumper into the H
30:33
position like so if I were to move the PIN
30:38
[Music] to these two jumper
30:45
wires now it's in the H position you can see
30:53
here the H can barely see it I think right there
31:00
when it's in the H position uh this puts the sensor into
31:07
repeat trigger mode meaning that when something crosses its path it triggers the two-minute
31:15
countdown or it begins again so if something crosses its path again within
31:20
the 2minute uh Countdown the timer the timer will restart the countdown over
31:26
again for 2 minutes so any motion resets the two-minute
31:32
timer so in this case if something crosses the the path of the sensor the
31:37
two-minute timer will start and then if something crosses it again that two-minute timer will restart
31:45
again so for this project we're going to keep it in the L
31:51
position or single single trigger mode meaning we for any mode motion we don't
31:58
want the timer to reset we just want the motion the timer to go and to continue
32:04
to count down for the full two minutes no matter any any other motion comes
32:10
across it so now that we have our Pier sensor and the jumper
32:16
wires connected to the pier sensor now we need to connect the pier
32:22
sensor to our breadboard so all we're going to do is we're going to take our red jumper wire which is connected to
32:30
the VCC pin or the positive Power Pin of the pier sensor we need
32:36
to place the other end of that jumper wire to the positive
32:44
Supply the 5vt positive Supply coming from our Arduino
32:49
Uno we need to ground that Supply so we're going to take our black jumper
32:56
wire that we connect Ed to the ground pin of the pier sensor I'm going to connect it to the
33:03
negative of this 5V Supply here and then I need to take the yellow
33:10
jumper wire which is connected to the out pin of the pier sensor and we're
33:16
going to connect it in this case to the 12 or pin 12 of the
33:25
Arduino again if you're not using the ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard and
33:33
you're using a generic 830 point breadboard the next thing that you'll be
33:39
doing in this process is
33:45
to like we did you had your Arduino set up for power on one end of
33:56
your supply or one end of your breadboard I
34:02
mean so yours would look like
34:08
this and you had your 9volt battery p uh 9volt battery connected to this which
34:17
later will be connecting to uh the Arduino itself to power the
34:23
Arduino but we're not doing that right now and the next thing
34:29
and connecting the pier sensor you would do pretty much the same as we did with the larger 3220 Point board you take
34:36
your red jumper wire place it into the positive Supply take your negative
34:43
jumper wire place it into the negative Supply and then take the yellow jumper
34:49
wire that's coming from the output pin of the pier sensor and just place it
34:54
into pin 12 of the Arduino so that's all that you would need to do there
35:01
and again you'd have your 9vt battery power with the with the wires connected
35:07
to the uh DC adapter which later like I
35:13
said we'll plug into the Arduino to power it when we need to do that but
35:19
we're not doing that yet okay for the next step of the albot
35:24
project for part one and motion sensing we want to go over to the mbots website
35:31
for albot part one motion sensing and we want to go down to the programming the Arduino to sense motion section I'll
35:38
leave the link in the description below and all we're going to do is copy this right here it's going to make a check
35:44
mark and we've copied it okay now I'm in the Arduino IDE I have copied the code
35:50
from the mbots website I've have my file here named albot part one I'm going to
35:57
now pay paste that code I copied and I'm going to save it okay you can see when I
36:03
ran the code I got some errors it says that there's a stray character or
36:10
something and these lines are highlighted here these are the only three lines that are highlighted after
36:16
copying the code from the site and pasting it here the way to fix this is
36:21
to just backspace these
36:30
and if I verify it
36:44
again alternatively to get the code for the albot project part one you can go to
36:50
our GitHub repository called albot remote and get the code there all you
36:56
need do is just press the copy raw file
37:02
and then once you copied that file from our GitHub account you can come into your Arduino Arduino IDE and paste the
37:11
code into your file and you can save it
37:18
there okay for the next part of this part one of the albot project we're
37:25
going to we're going to be programming the Arduino to sense motion this is
37:31
going to be the first part of or the first steps of coding the albot uh to
37:41
perform uh the actions that we want the albot to do so as I said for part one we
37:49
are only focusing on the motion sensing part so we can see here starting at the
37:57
top part of the code we are importing the
38:02
software uh serial Library so we need to import the software serial library in
38:09
order to use the serial communication on other
38:14
digital pins of the Arduino board moving down we see that we have a
38:20
couple of variables here we have uh the peer variable which is an INT and we
38:26
have a motion status variable which is also an INT we've initialized the uh the
38:33
peer variable to be the value of 12 and we've initialized the motion status
38:41
variable to be uh set to low so the perer variable will be associated with
38:48
the signal pin or the output pin from the pier sensor to pin 12 of the Arduino
38:55
and the motion status variable is the Cur current motion status or signal pin
39:00
reading so the value of zero is a low reading and the value of one is a high
39:05
reading the value is initially set to low meaning initially we don't want this
39:11
variable showing the peer sensor as reading motion right when the code is
39:17
compiled this this next variable that we have here is the peer State variable
39:23
it's initialized to be low the peer state variable is the state of the peer
39:29
sensor signal pin it's either high or low and as I said we initially set it to
39:35
low because we've set our motion status variable to low initially so we don't
39:40
want the peer State telling us that motion is detected when the motion status is initially saying that there's
39:47
no motion detected so we go ahead and initialize that to low and if we look
39:53
inside uh the setup here we can see that we have a pin mode here for our Pier
40:00
variable that's the pin 12 uh for the Arduino so the peer
40:05
variable was designated as pin 12 on the Arduino it's set as an output pin
40:11
because the Arduino will will receive input at Pin 12 from the pier sensor so
40:19
this input to the Arduino from the pier sensor is the 3.3 signal or the 3.3 volt
40:26
signal the peer sensor outputs from its output pin when motion is detected here
40:33
we have serial. begin uh 9600 and what this is is that we want to
40:40
be able to use the serial monitor for debugging purposes here we've set it at
40:45
a typical B rate value of 9600 and here we've set a delay of 2,000
40:53
or 2,000 milliseconds which is equival equivalent to 2 seconds so we set it at
41:00
2 seconds or 2,000 milliseconds because we just want to allow the peer sensor
41:05
and later other modules that we'll be using for the albot project to settle
41:10
down uh once things are powered on so that everything's ready to go so moving
41:16
down in our code here we can see our our Loop so this is where the code will
41:22
enter the loop and the first thing that occurs within the loop is the the motion
41:29
status variable uh where we have a digital read
41:35
and it's reading the peer signal from uh the pier or output pin of the
41:44
pier sensor so what's happening is that uh we want to get the motion status from
41:50
pin 12 of the Arduino and so we just want to know whether that uh signal is
41:56
high or low so as we said that when motion is detected from the pier
42:03
sensor uh a 3.3 volt signal will occur
42:09
uh from the sensor uh from the sensor's output pin to pin 12 of the Arduino and the Arduino
42:16
will pick up on that uh voltage signal uh telling us that there is motion
42:22
detected when it's high or there's no motion detected when that signal is low
42:28
or at zero volts here we have uh an if else
42:33
statement here we're saying that if the motion status is high so
42:39
if this motion status is high or if motion is detected we want to
42:46
check whether or not if the peer state is
42:52
low and again we initially uh set the peer State variable able to be low so
42:59
right off the bat when motion is detected it's going to go into this if
43:05
statement because that means the motion status is high and if the pier state is
43:10
low which it initially will be because we set it too low initially then we want
43:16
to print out to the serial monitor that motion has been
43:21
detected and then after that we want to set the pier state to high because we
43:27
want to mirror uh the high signal that's happening from the motion
43:34
status uh here now if there is no motion so if the motion status is low then it's
43:41
going to skip this if statement and go to the else else
43:47
statement so if there is no motion and if the pier state is high meaning that
43:54
it read uh the there was motion before but now there's no motion we want to go
44:01
inside here and print out no motion detected and then set the pier state to
44:07
low to reflect the low signal that the motion status would be
44:13
currently reading okay once you've copied the code from the website or either our GitHub
44:19
account the links will be in the description below uh all you need to do is take your
44:26
USB cable that's plugged into your computer and plug the other end to your
44:33
Arduino and then compile and upload that code to the
44:38
Arduino and then we'll run the code and then test it by waving our hand in front
44:44
of the pier sensor and if everything's working correctly you should be getting
44:49
some output readings on the serial monitor showing that there's motion
44:55
detected or no mo motion detected uh printed out to the serial monitor once we've plugged in our
45:03
Arduino to the computer we want to compile and upload the file by
45:08
pressing uh this upload file arrow button at the top left corner of the tool bar once that is done we want to
45:15
press over here to the far right where it says serial
45:22
monitor where we should see print out for no motion detected
45:28
motion detected and I'm waving my hand in front of the pier
45:37
sensor so we can see when there's motion detected and when there's no motion
45:44
detected okay at this point in part one of the albot
45:51
project motion sensing we've connected our 9vt battery
45:57
power supply to our breadboard we've made a connection to
46:06
the DC power adapter in order to connect to our Arduino uh the 9vt power supply
46:13
to the Arduino later on in the project we've connected our Pier sensor to the
46:19
Arduino and we've connected the Arduino uh its 5volt power supply and ground to
46:25
a power rail on to to the breadboard we've also copied and uh the code from
46:32
the mbots website again that uh information and Link is down in the
46:38
description below if you've if you ran into any problems in uh the code itself
46:45
uh when copying the code directly from the website there's a great explanation
46:50
and also uh video clips there showing how to uh fix that
46:57
problem uh alternatively you could copy the code from our uh GitHub uh account
47:04
at the repository for the albot project uh that link is down in the description
47:10
below and again visit our website at mbots dcom for this albot project uh and
47:16
others in order to find out uh all the information uh how to and all the steps
47:22
that you need to know to be able to complete this uh part of the project at mbots dcom again the link is down in
47:30
the description below this has been step one for the albot project motion
47:36
sensing next for part two of the albot project we will be adding sound to our
47:43
albot prototype we will be using an MP3 player to store an MP3 file that will
47:50
contain owl sounds to it and then we will use the Arduino Uno
47:57
and and uh add to our code later uh in order to have that sound play through a
48:05
couple of speakers that will add to the Arduino and to our prototype here so
48:10
that when motion is detected by the peer sensor those owl sounds will be made so
48:17
stay tuned for that part two of the albot project this has been part one
48:24
motion sensing for how to build and albot thank you for joining me and I'll
48:30
see you on part two

This livestream is currently offline

How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 1: Motion Sensing

motbots.com

Make Your Own Chewing Gum Box LED Night Light - Part 2

Electromechanical Switch Types: Rocker Switch - SPST

Make a Cigar Tube Circuit Tester - Part 1

Electromechanical Switches: SPDT Slide Switch

Slide Switch Circuit: More Switch Circuits! (Motbots Simple Switch Project)

Rocker Switch Circuit: More Switch Circuits! (Motbots Simple Switch Project)

Cigar Tube Circuit Tester Demonstration - Switching Polarities

How to Make a Scrubberbot - Part 2

Electromechanical Switch Types: Toggle Switch - SPST

Make Your Own Chewing Gum Box LED Night Light - Part 1

Electromechanical Switches: DPDT Toggle Switch

Electromechanical Switches: SPST Rocker Switch

How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 2: Making Sounds

Electromechanical Switch Types: DIP Switch

How to Make a Scrubberbot - Part 1

This livestream is currently offline

Up next in 10

How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 1: Motion Sensing

motbots.com