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How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section I): PCB Circuit Build
Sep 3, 2025
⬇️⬇️⬇️ INFO FOR PROJECT IN DESCRIPTION ⬇️⬇️⬇️
This is Part 6 (Section I) of a series of tutorials on how to build an OwlBot.
In this project we’re going to be performing the next step of what will eventually be the OwlBot. The OwlBot will be a device (robot/animatronic) that can be used as a bird intimidation tool to scare away pesky birds in the yard, around the house or barn, at restaurants, or in trees, bushes, and gardens. Hence, the phrase, “The Bird Intimidator”.
For this part of the project build, we're finally putting components from the breadboard to the PCB. Section I, has us doing the preliminary work of getting the Arduino prototype shield board together and adding the MP3 player module to it. We also begin creating our own wire connectors in the section of Part 6.
In Section II, of Part 6 (the next video), we'll continue our process of creating our own wire connectors for the speakers for the MP3 player, and the connections for the PIR sensor. We should have all the electronics working and ready to go, after that - ready for testing and to finally be placed inside our owl figure.
Video for Our Website Page: "How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator – Part 6 (Section I): PCB Circuit Build"
Page URL: https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-6-section-1-pcb-circuit-build/
Description: This is a supplemental video for a post made on our website.
Website: https://motbots.com
_________ PROJECT INFO _________
PARTS LIST: OwlBot Part 6 (Section I)
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-6-section-1-pcb-circuit-build/#Parts_List
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0:06
Welcome to part six, section one of the Albbot project.
0:24
I know what you're thinking. Why are we going to draw our schematic diagrams by hand? Can't we just use some type of
0:30
software that will allow us to quickly draw up whatever we need? The answer to this is yes, probably. But there are a
0:37
couple of reasons why I like to draw my PCB schematic diagrams by hand. One, it helps out to create a visual
0:44
aid. When drawing a schematic diagram by hand, I can draw it to the best of my ability as the circuit should look in
0:50
the real world. This helps me to visualize how components should connect to the PCB and to determine exactly
0:57
where they can go. Two, it makes customization easy. With a hand-drawn
1:02
schematic diagram, I can lay out how I want the components to be down to the exact through holes on the prototype PCB
1:09
board. This allows for total customization for the specific board that is being used. Three, it removes
1:16
any doubt during the soldering phase. Once I have my drawing all laid out and I'm ready to begin soldering components
1:22
to the PCB board, I can do so with more confidence, knowing that I have my handdrawn schematic diagram I drew up
1:28
beforehand. This helps remove any doubts that could have occurred if I had not taken the extra step of creating a
1:34
visual aid. This is not a professionally done project by any means. If it were, of course, I'd want professionally done
1:41
diagrams and schematics. We're just having fun here, but we also don't want to have a bad day by messing up our
1:48
project by making the wrong solder connections either. Drawing out any visual guides can help out tremendously,
1:55
especially one such as this Albot project since it has several components to deal with. If you're not up to
2:00
drawing your own schematic diagram, you're more than welcome using the one that I've provided down in the link
2:06
below. Just know that it's customized to the type of boards that I'm using. So,
2:11
if you're using a different version of Arduino microcontroller, then your PCB
2:16
prototype shield will obviously be different than mine. If you're using a different size PCB prototype board, my
2:24
drawing won't be like how the placement of components will be for your type of board. If you decide to draw your own
2:31
schematic diagram, don't fret on perfection. The sole purpose of the drawing is to act as a guide to solder
2:38
your components in the proper way they need to be so that you're not secondguessing yourself during the
2:44
transfer of components from the breadboard to the prototype PCB board. I
2:50
like to draw components and devices used in my projects as they are. I may use
2:55
schematic symbols if I think it'll work for my understanding of the circuit, but
3:01
having a real representation of something makes assembly and soldering much more easier and comfortable for me.
3:09
You can do whatever works for you. Just take your time and know that the most important thing is to make sure that you
3:16
have all your connections correct. Use the help of the other schematics we
3:21
use throughout this entire project series and just worry about making your drawings practical, not pretty. I'll be
3:29
sure to leave the links down in the description below for all the uh
3:34
schematics that we used thus far in this entire project series.
3:40
I've divided the placement of components onto two separate prototype boards. One
3:46
is an Arduino shield board and the second one is a 240 hole PCB prototype
3:53
board. It's a 3x7 cm I believe. I'm currently uh drawing that one right now.
4:00
We will fit the Arduino shield board on top of the Arduino Uno that we're using
4:06
for this project. It will give us a direct connection to all the pins of the Arduino. We will place the MP3 player we
4:13
added in part two of the series directly to this shield. We will add connectors to the shield for
4:20
access to the 5V supply from the Arduino. And we will add connectors to
4:26
make a common ground. And we will make our connections for the speakers, the
4:32
pier sensor and LEDs for the Albbot to this shield board as well. As for the
4:38
240 hole PCB prototype board, we will make our connections for the DC motor
4:44
and solenoids we are using for this project. And we will also make direct
4:49
connections to the secondary 9V power supply we added in part four of the series consisting of six AA batteries.
4:59
We will also make a connection from this board to the common ground that we'll
5:05
place on the Arduino shield board.
5:19
Okay, now that we have the handdrawn schematic diagram out of the way, the
5:24
first thing we'll need to do is to add the components we need to go onto the Arduino Uno prototype shield board and
5:32
solder them in place. We'll reference the handdrawn schematic diagram we created earlier so that we can
5:38
methodically transfer each individual component one at a time from the
5:43
breadboard to the shield board to be soldered.
5:55
We'll start off with making the connections from the ground and 5V holes
6:02
or through holes of the Arduino Uno prototype shield board. These connections will provide our common
6:09
ground and plus 5V supply from the Arduino's onboard voltage regulator that
6:16
will power components like the pier sensor, red LEDs, and MP3 player. First,
6:23
we're going to take a couple of small lengths of black 22 gauge or 22 AWG
6:30
solid core wire. will strip their ends about a quarter inch and then bend both
6:36
ends of those wires to be able to fit across the through holes that we're
6:43
using to create the connections that we need. So, I'm currently customizing a
6:49
strip of black wire to extend from the ground through hole on column 18, the
6:57
one next to the plus 5V supply to a through hole on column 15 that's in line
7:04
with that ground. And then I'll eventually take my second length of
7:10
black wire to connect to the second ground through hole because there's two
7:16
locations for ground not only from the Arduino itself but on this Arduino
7:22
prototype shield board cuz it matches with the Arduino that it will sit on top
7:29
of the holes will match up. So for the second wire, I'm going to extend from
7:34
the second ground through hole on column 18 to a through hole at column 16 that's
7:42
in line with that ground. So as you saw earlier, I had already
7:48
taken a small length of red 22 gauge or 22 AWG solid core wire. I had stripped
7:55
its ends about a/ quarter inch and bend both of the ends of the wire to fit from the hole at column 18 or the through
8:03
hole at the plus 5V supply to the hole at column 16 which is in line with that
8:09
plus 5V supply. And that's what I was showing with the arrow and the handdrawn
8:16
schematic diagram insert on the screen.
8:24
Now that we got the first couple of connections made to the prototype PCB shield board, let's move on to the MP3
8:30
player. Looking at the handdrawn schematic diagram, we can see that the chosen pin location on the shield board
8:37
is located along columns 5 and 13. The DF Player Pro MiniMPP3 player written as
8:44
its model number DFR0768 has a total of 12 pins, six pins on each
8:51
side. I'm going to place the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins on the MP3
8:58
player in line with the holes for pins 13, ground, AF, and SDA respectively.
9:05
Along column five of the board, the pins for VN, ground, RX, TX, DACR, and DAC of
9:14
the MP3 player are placed along column 13. When the MP3 is ready and positioned
9:19
on the board, we can solder all the pins in place.
9:34
Once we have the MP3 player soldered to the Arduino prototype shield board, we now need to extend the connections we
9:40
made for the positive and negative supply jumper wires we did in step one. First, take a length of red 22 gauge
9:48
solid core wire. Strip its ends about 1/4 in and bend both ends of the wire to
9:53
fit from the through hole on column 16 in line with the row for the positive
9:59
3.3 volt supply next to the small length of red wire we added earlier for the
10:05
positive 5V supply.
10:10
As you can see here in the video, I did not place this new red jumper wire in the location I just mentioned here. In
10:17
just a sec the video, I'll show with an arrow where I ended up changing the location of the red wire I just
10:22
mentioned previously. Solder this wire so that it's connected to the red wire we added earlier for the
10:30
positive 5V supply. Next, solder the other end of this new red jumper wire in
10:35
the through hole in line with the VN pin of the MP3 player on column 16. Now,
10:41
take a length of black 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about one
10:46
quarter inch and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on column 15 in line with the row for the
10:54
positive 5V supply next to the small length of black wire we added earlier for the ground. Solder this wire so that
11:01
it's connected to the black wire we added earlier for the ground.
11:09
Next, solder the other end of this new black jumper wire in the through hole in line with the ground pin of the MP3
11:16
player on column 15. Here, I'm doing all the soldering at
11:22
once once I'm done placing all the jumper wires in their through holes
11:28
instead of doing it step by step as I go.
11:40
Looking at a closeup of the board as it is so far, we can see that on our
11:46
Arduino prototype shield board that we have our red jumper wire coming from the
11:52
positive 5V supply up and over towards the VN pin of the MP3 player. Of course,
12:01
all of the soldering is done on the opposite side of the board, which we can't see at the moment, but we'll see
12:07
what it looks like in just a second once I flip the board over so we can see that view.
12:16
Here I'm pointing out the pin locations on the back side of the board where we need to solder the red jumper wires
12:23
together to complete the circuit all the way from the positive 5V supply to the
12:29
VN pin of the MP3 player. And of course, we'll want to do the same for all the black ground wires that we created
12:36
earlier. So, we'll want to connect both of the smaller black jumper wires that
12:42
we created coming from the two ground through holes. Then soldering those two
12:49
together to the longer black jumper wire that we created to extend all the way to
12:56
the ground pin of the MP3 player so that we can complete the ground circuit from
13:02
the two ground points all the way to that ground pin of the MP3 player.
13:12
Next, we need to add the two 680 ohm current limiting resistors for the two red LEDs we're using as the Albot's
13:19
blinking red eyes we added in part three of this project series.
13:47
You can see here on the handdrawn schematic diagram where we'll be placing those two 680 ohm resistors. The labeled
13:55
points A and B represent the connection points for the anodess of the LEDs that
14:01
will connect via a JST connector. will assemble later.
14:07
What we'll end up doing is take one of the 680 ohm resistors and place one of
14:13
its leads into the through hole on the prototype shield board in line with where pin 4 will be on the Arduino on
14:20
column three of the shield board. Then we'll place the other terminal of the resistor into a through hole also in
14:27
line with where pin 4 will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board.
14:32
as we saw earlier on the handdrawn schematic diagram. Then what we'll do is
14:38
take the other 680 ohm resistor and place one of its leads into the through
14:43
hole on the prototype shield board in line with where pin five will be on the Arduino on column 3 of the shield board.
14:51
Then we'll place the other terminal of this resistor into a through hole also
14:57
in line with where pin five will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board. Next, we'll end up taking the
15:04
1,00 ohm resistor and place one of its leads into the through hole on the
15:10
prototype shield board in line with where pin 2 will be on the Arduino on
15:15
column 3 of the shield board. We'll place the other terminal of this 1k ohm resistor into a through hole also in
15:23
line with where pin 2 will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board.
15:28
Then we'll solder each of the terminals of this 1k ohm resistor under the bottom side of the prototype shield board and
15:36
trim the excess leads off with our cutters just as we did with the two 680 ohm resistors. If at any point that you
15:43
feel confused, you may refer to the handdrawn schematic diagram that I drew that I'll leave down in the description
15:49
below. And you can also refer to the step-by-step process of this part of the
15:55
project via the link that I'll leave down in the description below.
16:04
Once we have the resistors in place from step four, we're now ready to make the connections we need to the RX and TX
16:10
pins of the MP3 player using some more jumper wires. First, take a length of
16:16
blue 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about 1/4 in and bend both ends of
16:22
the wires to fit from the through hole on column 8 next to the lead of the 1k
16:28
ohm resistor we soldered on column 7.
16:34
Now take the other end of the blue jumper wire and place it in the through hole on the prototype shield board on
16:41
column 13 in line with the 1k ohm resistor.
17:07
Next, take another length of blue 22 gauge solid core wire, strip its ends
17:12
about 1/4 in, and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on
17:18
column 13 next to the lead of the blue wire we just added. We're going to eventually solder the leads of these two
17:25
blue wires together so that we may continue this blue wire path.
17:47
Then take the other end of the blue jumper wire and place it in the through hole on the prototype shield board on
17:53
column 14 next to the RX pin of the MP3 player module. So as we can see here,
18:00
our path should follow through from next to where pin 2 will be on the Arduino
18:06
through the 1k ohm resistor and through the blue jumper wires we just added onto
18:12
the board to the RX pin of the MP3 player.
18:22
And looking at our diagram, we can see that connection from pin 2 through the 1k ohm resistor and over to the RX pin
18:30
of the MP3 player.
18:38
Now take a length of orange 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about
18:43
1/4 in and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on column 3
18:50
next to where pin 3 will be from the Arduino. Now take the other end of the orange jumper wire and place it in the
18:56
through hole on the prototype shield board on column 14 next to the TX pin of
19:02
the MP3 player module.
20:25
Referring back to the handdrawn diagram, we can review that we've currently placed the positive 5V supply from the
20:33
shield board to the VN pin of the MP3 player. We've also connected the two
20:39
ground point locations on the shield board to a single point on the board. And from that point, we've connected
20:46
another black ground wire to the ground pin of the MP3 player.
20:54
If we refer back to the connection point where all the ground points are
21:00
connected together later in the build will create a common ground connection
21:06
point using a header pin and we'll do that later in the build. Also, we've
21:13
created the connections to pins four and five to the two 680 ohm resistors and
21:21
later we'll add a JST connector to the other ends of those two resistors to be
21:27
able to connect the anodes of the LEDs. And we've also made a connection point
21:33
to where pin 2 will be from the Arduino on the shield board and have connected a
21:39
1k ohm resistor. And from that resistor, we've made a connection with the blue jumper wire to the RX pin of the MP3
21:46
player. We've also made a connection using an orange jumper wire from the pin
21:54
3 location on the shield board to the TX pin of the MP3 player.
22:16
In order to have devices and other items easily be connected and disconnected from our Arduino prototype shield board,
22:23
we're going to add a few connectors and header pins to it. We'll add a four pin straight header pin for connections to
22:30
the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro Mini MP3 player
22:37
module. We'll also add a two pin connector socket to make a connection to the Arduino prototype shield board at
22:44
the two 680 ohm resistors where the LED wiring assembly will connect to that
22:50
we'll make later in the build. We'll also add a four pin right angled header
22:56
pin for common ground connections to the Arduino prototype shield board. We'll start with the four pin right angled
23:03
header pin for common ground connections to the Arduino prototype shield board. I first connected a two pin right angled
23:10
header pin but later decided to add more. So I decided to add a second two
23:15
pinned right angled header pin to make it four pins. So all you need to do is
23:21
just take a four pinned right angled header pin to add to your board. So let's take a four pin right angled
23:27
header pin and place it at column 14 having the pins in line with both ground
23:33
rows and the rows for the positive 5 volts and the positive 3.3 volts on the
23:39
Arduino prototype shield board. Make sure that the angled pins are pointing toward the center of the shield board
23:45
and not towards the power connections we made earlier.
23:51
We'll end up soldering the four pin right angled header pin in place. To make things easier to solder and to hold
23:58
the header pin in place, you can add a piece of tape over the pins to the board
24:03
to keep the header pins from falling out as you solder them to the underside of the prototype shield board.
24:11
Next, we need to make the connections from each pin of the four pin right angled header pin to the ground
24:18
connections we made in steps one and three.
24:25
We'll solder each pin of the four pinned right angled header pin together. Then
24:31
solder that whole connection to the black ground wire connections we made in steps one and three on columns 15 and
24:39
16. Be aware that we are only making our
24:45
connections to ground. Do not solder this header to the positive 5V connections.
25:07
Next, we need to add the two pin JST connector socket to the Arduino prototype shield board at column 8 next
25:14
to and in line with the two 680 ohm resistors we added to the shield board
25:19
in step four.
25:51
We'll then want to solder this two pin JST connector socket to the shield board. Do not solder the pins of this
25:58
connector socket together.
26:12
Once you've soldered each pin of the two pin JST connector socket to the shield board, you'll need to solder each pin to
26:19
the corresponding 680 ohm resistor lead next to it. This will connect each
26:24
resistor to its corresponding pin at this connector socket. This connector socket will allow us to connect the two
26:31
red LEDs we added to the Albot prototype circuit in part three of the project series using a JST XH2Y connector socket
26:40
we'll set up later in this build.
26:53
Now we need to take a four pin straight header pin and place it at column four
26:58
having the pins be in line with the R minus, R plus, L minus, and L+ pins of
27:04
the DF Player Pro MiniM MP3 player module. Make sure that the pins of the
27:10
connector socket are placed on column 4 and not on column 3. We don't want this
27:16
connector socket to be in the through holes that would connect it to pin 13,
27:22
ground, a ref, and SDA of the Arduino.
27:35
We'll want to solder this four pin straight header pin to the shield board. Do not solder the pins to this header
27:42
pin together.
28:18
Once you've soldered each pin of the four pin connector socket to the shield board, you need to connect each pin to
28:25
the corresponding pin next to it from the MP3 player module.
28:30
Those are the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro MiniMPP3
28:36
player module.
29:08
In step six, we added a four pin straight header pin to the Arduino prototype shield board next to the R
29:16
minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro MiniMPP3 player module.
29:23
Those pins are for the two speakers we're using to be able to hear the audio playing from the MP3 player. one right
29:30
speaker, that's the R minus and R+ pins on the MP3 player, and one left speaker,
29:36
that's the L minus and L+ pins on the MP3 player. Now, we're going to create a
29:42
four-wire connector we'll use to connect from the four header pins we just added to the shield board to each wire of the
29:48
speakers. First, let's cut a 6 to 8 in length of red 24 gauge stranded wire and strip its
29:56
ends about 1/8 of an inch.
30:47
Next, take a dup. Dupont female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin
30:54
onto one of the ends of the red wire you just stripped.
31:58
Cut another 6 to 8 in length of red 24 gauge stranded wire. Make sure to keep
32:04
it the same length as the previous wire and strip its ends about 1/8 of an inch. Take a DuPont female connector pin and
32:11
your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto the end of the second red wire you just stripped.
32:46
Now cut a 6 to 8 in length of black 24 gauge stranded wire, keeping it the same
32:51
length as the two previous red wires, and strip its end about 1/8igh of an inch.
32:58
Next, take a DuPont female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto one of the
33:05
ends of the black wire you just stripped.
33:11
Cut another 6 to 8 in length of black 24 gauge stranded wire, making sure to keep
33:16
it the same length as the previous wires we just did, and strip its ends about 1/8 of an inch. Take a DuPont female
33:23
connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto the end of the second black wire
33:29
you just stripped.
33:42
Now that we have our four equal lengths of wire prepped, two red ones and two black ones, we can now take a four
33:49
terminal DuPont housing connector and place the four wires we just prepped into the housing of this connector.
35:30
To finish up this four-wire connector, we need to add DuPont female connectors and the housing to the other ends of the
35:37
wires, just as we did in the previous steps. Before doing so, I added some electrical tape around the four wires to
35:44
keep them straight, flat, and neat as I worked.
35:53
Once the four-wire connector was assembled and finished, I added more electrical tape to keep the wires
35:58
flattened out and to tidy this assembly up a
36:25
Here you see me getting a little ahead of myself and cutting two 12 to 14 inch
36:30
lengths of 24 gauge stranded wire. You see me cutting one red and one black
36:36
wire, but I need two 12 to 14inch lengths of red wire.
36:42
Our goal here is to assemble the wire connectors for the LEDs that we're using
36:49
as the Albot's flashing red LED eyes we set up back in part three of this Albbot
36:56
project series. I'll leave links to the blog post and to the video for that part
37:01
of the series down in the description below.
37:11
I had somehow forgotten to record making the two-wire connector we need for
37:16
connecting to the PCB shield board at the two pin JST connector socket we
37:22
soldered to the board back in step six, which is also to connect to the anodess
37:28
of the LEDs. It's a shorter connector made up of two smaller lengths of black
37:34
wire about 6 to 8 in. So, if you take a look at the images within the orange circle, you can see the white JST
37:42
connector on the left. That's the XH-2Y housing connector, and the two XH female
37:50
pins on the right. What you would do is you'd take your two smaller lengths of
37:55
black wire, each about 6 to 8 in in length. You would take your crimping tool and crimp an XH female pin
38:02
connector at the ends of both of the two black wires, just on one end of each
38:09
black wire. And then you would take those crimped ends with the XH female
38:14
pins on both of those black wires and insert those into the white uh JST
38:22
uh connector housing that you see in the image on the left and the orange circle. And then, as you can see in red, you can
38:29
see what's called the JST SYP-2Y connecting connector housing. And you'd
38:36
take a couple of SYP female pins, crimp them on the other ends of the two black
38:41
smaller wires, the 6 to8 in lengths of wire, and then you would insert both ends of those black wires into that red
38:48
SYP connector housing. And that would make up the smaller uh wire connector
38:55
that goes from the two pin JST connector
39:00
socket that's on the shield board. And then the other end of the two small black wires has the SYP connector. And
39:08
what we'll eventually do is add an SYP connector to the ends of the two longer
39:13
red wires we started out with. So the connector that you see in this image here will insert into the SYP female
39:22
connector that's at the ends of the two longer black wires. But you'll see how
39:27
this works later in the video. And I've left the instructions on how to create
39:32
these wire connector assemblies for part eight on our blog post on the website.
39:37
And I'll leave the link for the instructions for this entire video. this part six of the Albot project section
39:44
one down in the description below. Okay, so at this point I've cut a couple 12 to
39:51
14inch lengths of red 24 gauge stranded wire and have stripped both of their
39:57
ends about 1/8 of an inch. Okay, what you're looking at here is an SYP-2A
40:03
connector housing and we're going to use this as one of the connectors on the ends of the two long red wires we just
40:10
cut. and it's to connect with the SYP2Y connector housing that we used at the
40:15
end of the two smaller black wires that we created to connect to the JST
40:21
connector that we added to the Arduino prototype shield board from before. Now, we need to take an SYP male connector
40:28
pin and a crimping tool and crimp the male pin onto one of the ends of one of
40:33
the long red wires we just cut and stripped. We're going to want to do this for both of the long red wires.
42:06
Now that we've added the SYP male connector pins to the ends of both of our long red wires that we cut earlier,
42:14
we can now grab our SYP2A connector housing that can fit two pins so that we
42:20
can take Take the ends of the two red wires we just prepped with SYP male connector pins and place the pins into
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the connector housing all the way until they are securely in.
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Now that we have one end of both red wires connected to an SYP2A connector
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housing, we can now move on to soldering the other ends of the red wires to the
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anodess of the LEDs. We are still working with our two long red wires here. Tin the stripped ends of
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the red wires that have not been connected to anything yet.
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Next, tin the anodess of the two LEDs we are using from part three of the Albot
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project series. Take one red wire end and solder it to
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the anode of one of the LEDs.
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I'll be adding heat shrink tubing to all my connections. So, be sure to add a
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piece of heat shrink tubing over your wire before you start making any solder
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connections. That way, once you're done soldering, you can place your heat shrink tubing at your connection and
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then add heat to it to protect that soldered connection. Then take the other
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red wire and solder its end to the anode of the second LED.
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Now that we have the anodes of the LEDs connected to our long red wires with the SYP2A connector at their ends, we now
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need to make connections to the cathodes of the LEDs so that we may use a DuPont connector to connect them to the common
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ground header pins we soldered to our Arduino prototype shield board back in step six. Cut an 18 to 20 inch length of
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black 24 gauge stranded wire and strip its ends about 1/8igh of an inch. We'll
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need two lengths of wire total. So, go ahead and cut yourself another and strip its ends as well. Next, take a DuPont
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female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto one of the ends of
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one of the long black wires you just cut and stripped. Now take your other long black wire and another DuPont female
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connector pin and crimp the female pin onto the end of the second long black wire. The next thing to do is to get a
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DuPont housing connector that can fit two pins so that we can take the ends of
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the two black wires we just prepped with DuPont female pins and place the pins into the connector housing all the way
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until they are securely in.
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Now that we have one end of both black wires connected to a DuPont connector housing, we can now move on to soldering
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the other ends of the black wires to the cathodess of the LEDs. We're still working with our two long black wires
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here. Tin the stripped ends of the black wires that have not been connected to anything yet. Next, tin the cathodes of
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the two LEDs we're using. Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over your wires
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and slide them out of the way. We'll use them to protect the soldered connections.
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Take one black wire end and solder it to the cathode of one of the LEDs.
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Take the other black wire and solder its end on the cathode of the second LED.
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After you've soldered the black wires to the cathodes of the LEDs, you can now slide the heat shrink tubing up to those
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soldered connections and then heat the heat shrink tubes to give a nice secure
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covering over these soldered connections. So, you can see here that we have our
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long red and black wires soldered to the LEDs. This is the DuPont connector end
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of the two long black wires. This end will get connected to the common ground header pins we established on the
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Arduino prototype shield board earlier. That section is shown here in the red circle of the image of the diagram. The
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other ends of these black wires are connected to the cathodes of the LEDs.
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This end is the SYP connector we added to the ends of our two long red wires.
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Their other ends are connected to the anodes of the LEDs. As you can see in the image of the diagram, I've circled
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in red where this connection will be made on the board next to the two 680
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ohm resistors we added to the shield board. This connection is at the labeled points A and B. I made a pink box around
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the LEDs in the diagram showing their connections as they should be.
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For this section of part six of the series, we've begun the process of creating a more permanent fixture for
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the Albot to have all its electronic organs soldered in one place. We began
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the process of transferring some components from the breadboard to the PCB. We've done some soldering and we've
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made some of our own connectors. We've done a lot, but there's a lot more to do. Transferring everything over from
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the breadboard to the PCB takes a lot of time and work. And putting it all in one video would make working on it very
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cumbersome. So, part six of this series has been divided into its own sections
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to alleviate the headache of working on all of this in one go. This was section one. Next, we'll have section two. And
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in section two, we'll continue our process of creating our own wire connectors and move on to working on
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making connections for the speakers for the MP3 player and the connections for the pier sensor. We should have all the
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electronics working and ready to go. After that, ready for testing and to finally be placed inside our owl figure.
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We may finally have a body for the Albot. Thank you for participating and thanks for watching. Until next time,
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keep at it and stay motivated.
#Electronic Components