live_tv
Livestream Starting Soon
00
Hours
:
00
Minutes
:
00
Seconds
Up next in 10
How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build
Oct 12, 2025
⬇️⬇️⬇️ INFO FOR PROJECT IN DESCRIPTION ⬇️⬇️⬇️
This is Part 6 (Section II) of a series of tutorials on how to build an OwlBot.
In this project we’re going to be performing the next step of what will eventually be the OwlBot. The OwlBot will be a device (robot/animatronic) that can be used as a bird intimidation tool to scare away pesky birds in the yard, around the house or barn, at restaurants, or in trees, bushes, and gardens. Hence, the phrase, “The Bird Intimidator”.
For this part of the project build, we're finally putting components from the breadboard to the PCB. In Section II, we're creating the daughter board to the Arduino shield-board we made in Section I. The daughter board will hold all the components used to control the solenoids and DC motor for the OwlBot.
In Section III, of Part 6 (the next video), we'll continue our process of creating our own wire connectors and add switching for each of the two power supplies we're using for the circuitry of the OwlBot. We should have all the electronics working and ready to go, after that - ready for testing and to finally be placed inside our owl figure.
Video for Our Website Page: "How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator – Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build"
Page URL: https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-6-section-2-pcb-circuit-build/
Description: This is a supplemental video for a post made on our website.
Website: https://motbots.com
_________ PROJECT INFO _________
PARTS LIST: OwlBot Part 6 (Section II)
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-6-section-2-pcb-circuit-build/#Parts_List
Show More Show Less View Video Transcript
0:05
Welcome to section two for part six of the Albot project. For the next order of
0:11
business, I have these speakers here for the Albot that have these little JST connectors on them that I need to cut
0:17
off. I don't have any small connector pins for this size. I just have larger ones. So, I'm going to replace these
0:25
with what I have here. You can see the size differences here.
0:31
You may not need to do this step depending on what speakers you're using. This is what I need to do. So, that's
0:37
what I'll do next.
0:49
I'll just go ahead and snip this connector off the speaker here. Then split the wires and then I'll strip
0:55
their ends.
1:10
So you could see here this is that four wire connector we made from before in section one for the connections to the
1:18
pins for the speakers to the MP3 player. Those were the R+, R minus, and L+ and L
1:25
minus pins of the MP3 player for the right and left speakers. I used a four
1:31
pin female DuPont connector on the ends of this four-wire connector I made. And
1:36
you can see the yellow header pins where that homemade four-wire connector goes for the speakers to connect to the MP3
1:44
player. So now what I need to do is strip the ends of these wires on the
1:49
speaker to add male Dupont connectors on these wires to be accepted into that
1:54
four wire female DuPont connector I just showed you. So each wire of each speaker
2:00
will have these male pin DuPont connectors on them. two for each speaker, the left and right speaker to
2:07
connect to the MP3 player via the four wire connector on the yellow header pins of the Arduino shield board we created
2:14
in section one of part six of this build. So, let's do that next.
2:20
[Music] [Applause]
2:28
[Music]
2:43
[Music] Okay, we can see here this is what those
2:49
male DuPont connectors look like once this is done. This will allow me to easily connect and disconnect from that
2:56
four-wire connector to the MP3 player on the Arduino Shield board we made. I'm
3:01
sure there's better ways to do this connection, but this is what I had and what I came up with. I ended up splicing
3:08
in some more length of wire to the wires of the speakers just to give me more length because I wanted to be sure that
3:15
I could place these speakers wherever I needed inside the Al figure I'm using for the Albot since it's pretty tall.
3:22
All I did was solder the wires together and added heat shrink tubing for protection. So, this speaker should be
3:29
ready to go to be connected to the MP3 player. Okay, I have the setup for the
3:35
two speakers done. The wires have been taped up with electrical tape to keep them together and the connectors are
3:42
finished. I'll demonstrate what hooking them up to the MP3 player will look like. The only thing that I'm making
3:49
sure that I do is to match the red and black wires when I connect them. I have
3:55
the red as the positive wire and the black as the negative wire for both the
4:00
speakers and how the four pin connector wire is set up to the yellow header pins
4:05
for the MP3 player. It doesn't matter which speaker I hook up as left or right. Either speaker can be either
4:13
configuration. So, we can see here how the connections for the speakers to the MP3 player on the Arduino Shield board
4:20
we made will look like. Again, I've left myself plenty of length in my wires to
4:26
place them wherever I need to on the owl figure later for the finished Albot.
4:37
Okay, what I've decided here is that for the pier sensor output line, it's going to have to go to pin 12. So, I'm going
4:44
to use a strip of yellow header pins here. And since we're not using pins 6 through 12, I just took the header pins
4:50
that I needed and lined them up on pins 6 through 12. We're only going to be using pin 12
4:57
again for that out pin of the pier sensor. I took the Fresno lens off the pier sensor so that I could see the pin
5:04
labeling underneath. So, we have VCC out and ground. That out is the yellow wire
5:11
and that's going to go to pin 12. We won't be connecting anything to the rest of the pins. If you wanted to
5:18
connect something else in the future or add something to the albot, you could, but I just did it this way to make it
5:25
easier to connect to pin 12 based on the configuration that I have on the board.
5:31
So, I didn't really plan things out. I'm just winging it. So, this is how I'm putting it together right now. And for
5:37
the power or VCC, which is the red wire or VCC for the pier sensor, I just took
5:43
these three red header pins here and put them in line with the red jumper wire we
5:49
put in earlier on in section one of part six of this build. That red jumper wire
5:55
goes to VN to the MP3 player, which comes from the 5V supply that comes from
6:01
the Arduino. And then again, I'm just going to use one of these pins we established for the
6:07
common ground we put in in section one of part six of this build. I'll use one
6:13
of the ground pins for the black wire or ground wire of the pier sensor, which
6:19
will connect to the common ground.
6:24
So, in order to keep all the header pins down while I solder them in because they're just loose here, I'm going to
6:31
use some tape. Again, you can do whatever you want, whatever is easier for you to keep it all in place. Again,
6:38
I'm going to use just regular scotch tape. It's just to hold it in place for
6:44
now so that it's not falling out on me when I turn the board over here in a minute.
6:49
I'll just take another piece of tape and place it over the yellow headers I need to solder in place as well. This tape
6:56
should hold it in place for when I rotate it over, they're not going to fall out on me. And when I can, I can
7:03
just try to use my other finger to hold them in place. So now I've got to solder. But before I
7:11
get into that, you just have to make sure that when you're taping that you're not going to overlap the tape onto where
7:18
you're trying to solder the pins like I did here. So, I'll just kind of move it out of the way, but making sure that the
7:25
tape is still on the board so I can keep all that down and it's not moving on me. So, I'm going to solder here and these
7:33
pins here. I don't know if you can see that on the
7:38
camera or not.
7:46
[Music]
8:00
[Music] Okay. So now
8:08
this blob here is for all the pins for the red header pins. The three that I
8:13
put here, they're all connected together here because we want them all to be
8:18
connected to the plus 5 volts, which is connected to this jumper that we added
8:24
from before for the plus 5 volts going to VN of the MP3 player, which goes to
8:33
this red jumper wire that goes to the smaller red jumper wire tied to the plus
8:40
5 volts pin here. to where the Arduino will be. So, all of that is connected to
8:46
these three red header pins now and also underneath going to the VN pin of the
8:53
MP3 player. So, these are all connected to each other, but these yellow header pins are
9:01
all separate. So, I didn't connect all these together because they need to go
9:07
to each of the pins 6 through 12. Again, we're going to use pin 12 for
9:13
this project, but the other pins will be open here. I just did this to make it easier, and maybe later I would want to
9:21
add something to the project. I don't know. But for now, we're just going to
9:26
be using pin 12. And that's these individual pins here. This group of pins
9:32
right here. And those are all connected to the pads across from each other. And
9:38
these are pins 6 through 12. So, pins 6 through 12.
9:44
So, again, these are separate. They're not soldered to each other like these are. These need to be soldered to each
9:51
other because these are supposed to be all for 5 volts.
9:58
So, we're just feeding off the 5 volts coming in for these. And it also goes to
10:04
be in on the MP3 player. So, that's our plus 5 volts.
10:14
So, what I've done now is added an extra source connection for the plus 5V feed
10:20
going to VN of the MP3 player. I've also added for pin 12 here, that's point E
10:27
that traces back to the line for the out pin of the pier sensor. Again, I used the yellow headers for my
10:35
prototype shield board that run from pins 6 through 12. And pin 12 is labeled
10:41
as point E in the drawing.
10:47
I just decided to put the group of plus 5V red header pins that we can see here
10:53
on the shield board. I just put it here, although it's not shown on the drawing
10:59
here, but we're feeding in from the 5 volts here. So, it'll all be 5 volts
11:05
like I said earlier for those red jumper wires to the red header pins, then to VN
11:11
on the MP3 player. So, next what I need to do is that I
11:19
need to connect the wires from the pier sensor. So, this VCC is going to be a
11:25
red wire. The out is going to be a yellow wire and the ground is going to
11:30
be a black wire. And the VCC wire or red wire traces back to what I've labeled as
11:37
point F on the drawing. And F goes to that plus 5V supply, which will be the
11:43
red header pins that are not shown in the drawing currently. The outwire or
11:48
yellow wire traces back to what I've labeled as point E on the drawing. And E
11:54
goes to the pin 12 connection of the Arduino, which is on the group of yellow
11:59
header pins that was added to the board earlier. And then ground or the black wire traces
12:07
back to what I've labeled as points G on the drawing. And these points go to our
12:13
common ground pins on the shield board. And those are these groups of black 90°
12:18
angle header pins that we installed from before. We're using two or three right
12:24
now. And we'll have a fourth one available for that ground pin.
12:41
I also forgot to mention earlier that these pins here, I made sure that they
12:47
weren't going to hit anything on the Arduino. So, I have this other Arduino
12:54
board here. So, this is going to be placed kind of it like this. Once we
13:00
install the other pins along these rails here, they're going to fit inside
13:06
uh these uh holes here. And then we'll pin them.
13:12
We'll slide them through those holes. And they'll rest about so tall off this
13:18
Arduino board. And I just needed to make sure that
13:23
these other pins that I didn't plan on having there that I
13:29
just recently decided to put uh there weren't going to hit anything
13:35
like hit this or I don't know if they were going to hit something like that, but it seems to be just fine and
13:41
nothing's going to be in the way. So, that's something that you need to consider when you're creating a project
13:48
like this. Uh, just make sure that you have proper placement of pins and that
13:54
other things aren't going to hit or touch other things.
14:04
I just wanted to go over this again about connect doing these uh DuPont connectors. So, here I have a
14:12
a female end, and
14:18
there's a name for it.
14:24
This is an SYP female end. So, it has the female end
14:31
there. And this is what it looks like here.
14:36
There's a picture of it right there. So that's an SYP female pin.
14:44
Looks like that. So what I do is I take I have my wire and I take
14:53
about I don't know an eighth of an inch or so off the end.
15:00
I give it a little twist at the end. If it's a frayed wire like that, which
15:06
you know, you're normally working with a stranded wire. So then I take
15:14
this tool here, which is specifically made for doing this kind of work for
15:21
connecting like DuPont connectors or these uh SYP connectors, whatever you
15:26
call them. So for in this case, I use the 22 to 24 gauge. It's the smallest
15:33
one on here. And I take that
15:39
SYP female pin. And I stick it in there. And I take I stick it in there with my
15:46
left hand, my left fingers, and I clamp down with my right hand. But
15:51
I'm not I'm not, you know, clamping real hard on the handle. I'm just doing it so
15:58
slightly to where I can hold that female pin in there like this
16:05
where it's just
16:11
just in there where it's kind of sticking out
16:17
like that where you want those tabs almost flush to the side of the face of
16:23
the tool like that. where it's just flush like that. And what we're going to do is we're going to stick that wire in
16:30
there. I have to get the wire now cuz I dropped it.
16:35
I have that wire. And no, it's already frayed again.
16:42
So, I'll twist it just so it's not so frayed at the end. It doesn't need to be
16:48
perfect. So, it's sitting in there flush. I'll take this wire and stick it
16:54
in there until the sheathing of the wire butts up against the face of
17:01
that tool there. And then I'll give it a good squeeze on the tool
17:07
to kind of clamp that wire in there. And then I'll release.
17:13
And right now, this is what it looks like. It clamped onto that
17:20
wire. If you can kind of see it there. I don't know if you can. Let me get a
17:26
better where it's kind of clamped. The first
17:31
part of that female pin connector is clamped around
17:37
those little tiny tabs are clamped around that stranded wire in there. So now we need to clamp these two tabs,
17:45
these larger tabs around the sheathing.
17:51
of the wire, the red wire. So now I'm going to step it up to the 18 to 20
17:59
gauge portion of the tool. It's just a little bit larger than that 22 to 24
18:05
hole that we used. So I'm going to use that one. And I'm going to slide this in there until those tabs are just inside.
18:14
Oops. I'm going to slide it in there until these tabs are just inside that
18:20
tool. It's kind of hard to look at this and then look at the camera to make sure
18:26
everything's there. So, if I rotate the tool around, you can kind of see that those two tabs are just inside there,
18:36
just inside the teeth of that tool. Now I'm going to clamp down on it, but I'm
18:42
not going to I'm just clamping enough to where it kind of seals it a little bit.
18:48
I'm I'm just barely clamping down on it. Now, when it's at that point, that's enough. I don't need to clamp it down as
18:56
hard as I can because I just need So, I release it. I just need it to clamp enough
19:04
to get those tabs to go
19:09
wrap into that uh sheathing. And now now that I'm
19:15
looking at I could have gone a little bit harder. So all I got to do is stick
19:20
it back. Stick it back in there where I had it. Make sure it's where I had it. And I'll
19:28
just clamp it a little bit more. I'm not clamping real hard. I'm just clamping a little bit more and I'll release it. I
19:35
just need to get it enough to where it's clamped into the sheathing
19:45
just so it kind of stays where it needs to be. So, that's all you really need to do. And you might need to adjust
19:56
the uh tabs on here. And I use the end of the tool, which is just like an end
20:04
flat edge that I can use kind of like some pliers. And if you need to adjust, see how that
20:11
width of that pen is a little fatter or wider because I clamped down so hard it
20:19
made it wider than the rest of this. It might be a little bit wider here. So, in
20:25
order to make it
20:32
to where it'll fit into the uh plastic sheathing later, it may
20:39
be a little too wide to fit inside uh the holes of one of these plastic uh
20:48
retainers here when you have to stick that when you have to stick it in here
20:54
later. It might be a little too wide where I had clamped down onto those
20:59
tabs. So, I'll just take this flat end of the tool. And if I need to,
21:06
I'll just kind of not real hard because I don't want to damage anything. I just
21:11
clamp it just a little bit. Oh, it slipped on me. But I'll clamp it just a
21:17
a little bit to where I can get it to where it can slide up in
21:24
I can get it to where it will slide up in this hole more easily for me.
21:30
Okay, we want to get this in this kind of position like this
21:37
and slide that in here like if I can get it to focus like this. I'm
21:46
going to slide it. I can get it in there.
21:52
And we should hear like a a click sound telling us it's all the way in there.
21:57
Sometimes it can be kind of finicky to try to get in there. And then uh
22:05
and it's in like this. Just takes a lot of practice. I'm by no
22:11
means an expert in doing this. I have to take my time every time and I tend to
22:18
mess it up a lot of the times and have to redo it. But just keep practicing at
22:24
it and uh you'll eventually get the hang of it.
22:35
As you can see here, I ended up creating some extensions for the wires coming from the pins of the pier sensor so that
22:42
when I place all the circuitry into the Albot that I am using for the Albot later, the wires will be able to reach
22:48
from the Arduino and its prototype shield board to the pier sensor. All I did was take another 6 to 8 in of the
22:55
same red, yellow, and black wire we were using before and added a three pin female DuPont connector housing that
23:02
could hold all three wires together. Making sure that the order of the wires matched to the Vin, out, and ground pins
23:09
of the pier sensor. That's the red, yellow, and black wires, respectively. I then twisted the wires around each other
23:15
for better wire management. Then I added a three pin male DuPont connector housing at the other end of these three
23:21
wires so that I could connect the single red, yellow, and black wires with the DuPont connectors I made previously. And
23:29
each of those have a single female DuPont connector at their opposite ends to connect to the points on the Arduino
23:35
shield board we discussed earlier for the connection points for the pier sensor.
23:42
Now we need to move on to soldering the header pins that will match to the Arduino Uno from the prototype shield
23:48
board. In my case, I happen to be using green header pins, making sure that I match the number of pins needed to align
23:55
perfectly with the Arduino Uno. To solder the header pins to the prototype shield board, you can use the old header
24:01
pins placed on a breadboard trick to help keep them in place on the shield board to be able to solder them more
24:07
easily. I've demonstrated this trick in a video before when soldering the header pins to the MP3 player that we're using
24:14
for this project here. I believe the title of that video was trick to soldering header pins to a PCB module
24:21
board. I'll leave the link in a card and in the description of this video below if you'd be interested in that. I ended
24:27
up using the tape trick that I showed you earlier in the build, using regular scotch tape to keep the header pins in
24:33
place for me to solder them on the shield board. You can use whatever method you'd like and is easier for you.
24:41
Here's what my Arduino prototype shield board looks like so far after adding the header pins and of course with
24:47
everything else done so far on it. If you've placed the correct number of header pins in the correct locations,
24:54
you should be able to line them up and fit the shield board onto the Arduino.
25:03
You can see here that all my green header pins from the shield board line up and fit into all the female headers
25:09
of the Arduino Uno.
25:38
At this point in the build, we have our Arduino prototype shield board all set up. the header pins ready to go on it.
25:45
We've got the speakers and pier sensor all wired up, connected, and ready to go. Next, we need to move on to creating
25:52
our secondary PCB board or daughter board where we'll connect all the
25:57
components for the solenoids and DC motor to it. From there, that'll be the
26:02
board we'll connect the solenoids and motor. And then we'll create our connections from the daughter board to
26:08
the shield board. Doing this will provide a separation of lower and higher powered components. We'll also connect
26:15
the secondary battery we added back in part four of this build series to the daughter board. Here you see the
26:21
daughter board or Perf board or PCB board that I'm using. Its dimensions are
26:27
3 cm by 7 cm. At this point, I'll need to start explaining the other components
26:33
that I'll need from the prototype circuit on 2D that you see here in the
26:39
background. That brown art box there. I'll transfer the components as I go from the prototype circuit on 2D to this
26:46
daughter board I have in this PCB clamp here in front of us. So, again, referring to our handdrawn schematic,
26:53
this is the daughter board that we'll work on next. This is going to have power coming from the secondary 9volt
26:59
battery. And then we have our 0V reference of that secondary 9volt battery here. This is going to be part
27:06
of the common ground for the entire circuit. And I'm not going to do the connections to the 9volt power supply
27:12
just yet. I'm just going to go straight into putting the components in onto the board. We'll have our labeled X1 and X2
27:20
solenoids here and the X1 plus X1 minus terminals off the X1 solenoid and the X2
27:28
plus and X2 minus terminals off the X2 solenoid. So the plus and minus X1
27:34
terminal points are labeled here and here on the drawing. We have our diode and then we have our MOSFET here. And
27:41
then the plus and minus x2 terminals will go to the labeled points for plus x2 and minus x2 on the schematic diagram
27:49
drawing here. We have our diode and then we have the mosfet for that setup here.
27:55
Then we have our DC motor over here on the drawing. And we labeled M1 and M2
28:00
for the terminals of the motor here. We also have our capacitor across the
28:05
motor. And we see those points on the drawing here. the labels for M1 and M2
28:11
where we want the motor to connect to on the daughterboard. And then we have the MOSFET for the motor control here.
28:19
And even though it's not drawn on here, the capacitor for the DC motor will need to be soldered across the terminals of
28:25
the DC motor. We want to place it as close as we can across the terminals of
28:31
the DC motor. We haven't done that yet, but we will do it later. I've discussed
28:36
why we want to place a capacitor across a DC motor before back in the Scrubberbot project. The discussion of
28:43
this was on step zero of the Scrubberbot project on the Mopbots website. I'll
28:48
leave a link in the description below to that information if you're curious. It's a nice way to get kids excited about
28:54
cleaning the house. So, now I take this off.
29:03
If I'm looking at the handdrawn schematic,
29:08
I'm wanting to put starting with the diode
29:14
at the very bottom. So just kind of looking at it this
29:20
perspective. So I'm starting with this diode here. So I have the cathode of
29:26
that diode at the uh seven column in the
29:32
row B according to the board. So I'll start there and then I have the other
29:38
end of the diode or the anode of the diode at column 7 row F. So, I'll start
29:45
with that and then I'll work my way to uh the MOSFET and then the resistor and
29:53
then I can work on jumper wires and stuff that will go to where I'm wanting a common ground, which I'll probably put
30:01
the common ground and the power here on the board itself
30:08
uh in first just using bare solid core wire on the board. So, let's get to that
30:14
next.
30:20
So, like I said, I'm wanting the positive supply of the 9volt battery to
30:26
come here. I'm just going to choose this pad here.
30:32
And then I'm going to choose this pad here for the uh negative supply of the 9volt battery,
30:39
which will also be connected to the common ground. So, I'm going to go from here to this column of
30:50
or this column of holes here, which is a number two column. So, I want my common
30:59
ground or at least the wire to go across uh that column from this pad to column
31:08
two and that will run the span. Now, all these holes won't be attached to that,
31:13
but I'm going to run a solid wire from this one all the way up to uh this hole
31:20
here, which is column two. And then on the back side of this, if it's a solid
31:26
core wire, it'll run completely on the bottom side
31:33
from here to here. That's column two, what I'm
31:39
calling the front side from here to here and to this pad. And then the
31:46
9volt battery, the negative supply will connect to this pad.
31:51
And then the same for the positive supply on this pad. And I'm using column
31:58
eight on this board. No, column nine on this board. from here
32:05
all the way up to there. And again, I'm using a solid core wire, which we'll see
32:12
in a minute. Uh we'll see how all that works.
32:17
Okay, I've gone ahead and soldered the two solid wires that I said that I would use as my positive and negative supply
32:23
lines for the secondary 9V battery of the Albot. Looking at this first copper
32:29
pad here, this is for the positive supply. I cut about an 8 inch length of red solid core wire, inserted one end of
32:36
it through a through hole on column 9, row B, then inserted the other end of the wire through a through hole on
32:43
column 9, row W, and soldered the wire in place there. I left a piece of red
32:49
sheathing on the wire in place just as a color reference for myself as I put the
32:55
components on the board later to let me know that this is the positive supply. You don't have to do this, but it can be
33:02
helpful. As for the negative supply, I did the same setup to it as I did for the
33:09
positive supply. I cut about an 8 in length of black solid core wire. I
33:14
inserted one end of it in a through hole on column two, row B, and then threaded
33:20
the other end of the solid core wire in a through hole on column 2, row W, and
33:27
soldered that wire in place there. I left a piece of black sheathing of the
33:32
wire in place just as a color reference for myself to let me know that this is the negative supply. Again, you don't
33:39
have to do this, but it can be helpful. What I'm going to do is kind of work my
33:45
way from the bottom view of the daughter board I'm working on on the drawing of the schematic diagram, starting with the
33:51
first diode we see there for the first MOSFET to one of the solenoids. I'll grab the diode first from the breadboard
33:58
prototype on 2D and place its leads into the through holes I've designated for it on the board, making sure that I place
34:05
the diode in its correct orientation as described on the diagram.
34:10
So, I've placed the cathode side lead at the through hole on column 7, row B,
34:16
toward the copper pads, and I've placed the anode side lead at the through hole on column 7, row F.
34:26
Next, I want to take the MOSFET associated with the diode that I've just set on the board. This is an RFP 30N06
34:35
MOSFET, and we need to make sure that we place it in the correct orientation of
34:40
which you can see where I've labeled for the gate, drain, and source pins in the drawing.
34:46
Looking at the MOSFET directly with its labeling facing towards us or the drain flange or metal tab with the hole in it
34:53
facing away from us, we can point out the gate, drain, and source leads.
35:03
So on the drawing, I made it to where it goes drain, gate, source, but the pins
35:08
of the diagram goes gate, drain source. So even though it looks like the diode
35:14
will go to an outer pin or lead of the MOSFET here according to the drawing, I
35:19
need the anode of the diode to go to the drain of the MOSFET. So in actuality, it
35:24
will go to the center pin of the physical MOSFET, but I've drawn it as if it goes to an outer pin of the MOSFET
35:30
for convenience in the drawing. So, we really need to pay attention to what the spec sheet of the MOSFET tells us, what
35:37
the drawing here is telling us, and how we're connecting our components on the
35:42
board. Just know that the anode of the diode needs to go to the middle pin, the
35:47
drain pin of the physical MOSFET, not to one of the outer pins. Pay attention to
35:52
the spec sheet representation of the MOSFET I've drawn here or on the actual spec sheet of the RFP 30N06,
36:01
not to the orientation of the labeling of the pins of the MOSFET on the drawing I made of the board again. So the middle
36:08
pin is the drain pin. So it needs to be in line with the anode of the diode. I'm
36:13
placing the drain pin, the middle pin of the MOSFET in line with the diode at the
36:18
through hole of column 7 at row G. So the source pin is at column 8 row G and
36:25
the gate pin is at column 6 row G.
36:31
So it needs to be in line with that diode. And I'll show
36:41
so we can see I'm making that middle drain pin of the MOSFET in line
36:47
with the diode here. And this is the anode of
36:53
the diode going to the middle pin or drain pin of that MOSFET.
37:05
Now I'm going to move on and transfer the 10 kiloohm resistor that was connected to the gate of the MOSFET that
37:12
we just transferred to the PCB board and place this resistor back in line with the gate of that MOSFET again on the
37:20
board. So again, this resistor will need to go to the gate of the MOSFET we just
37:25
placed on the board. We said the gate of the MOSFET will be the left pin of the MOSFET when looking at the front side of
37:32
the MOSFET. This pin here. So, I need one lead of the resistor to go in line
37:38
with the gate. I'll place it in a through hole next to it. That'll be at column 5, row G. And I'll place the
37:45
other lead of the resistor in the through hole at column one, row G, where that end will be soldered to the common
37:52
ground solid wire we established under the bottom side of this board earlier.
37:57
So instead of putting this lead of the resistor in line with the gate of the MOSFET, I've placed it next to it and
38:04
I'll make the connection in the direction that it is. And the other end of this resistor will eventually get
38:10
connected to the negative supply rail of the 9-volt battery or common rail on the bottom side of this daughter board. If I
38:17
turn the board over, we can see that this is that lead of the resistor and it will be soldered to that negative rail
38:23
here. And then the next thing to do is the source lead. For the source leads, I
38:29
was using a green color on the handdrawn schematic diagram. So, I'll just go ahead and use a green 22 gauge solid
38:36
core wire as my jumper wire from that source pin to the negative supply.
38:43
So, now what I've done is I've placed my green solid core wire in line with the source pin of the MOSFET at column 8,
38:51
row H. And I've placed the other end of this green jumper wire in the through hole at column one, row H, where this
38:58
end will be tied or soldered to the negative supply. And that's where that source pin goes for our green jumper
39:05
wire. What I'll do now is continue this process with the second MOSFET with the diode, resistor, and jumper wire for it
39:13
just like we did to this one. This will be for the second solenoid. So this next
39:18
one will be done exactly the same except the diode will be placed with its cathode at row J and its anode at row N
39:27
both along column 7 on the board. The MOSFET will be placed with its gate, drain, and source pins along columns 6,
39:35
7, and 8 respectively on row O on the board. The resistor will be placed next
39:42
to the MOSFET at column 5, row O, and its other lead at column 1, row O. And
39:49
then the green jumper wire for the source pin of this next MOSFET will go from column 8, row P, to column 1, row
39:58
P. I'm also going to go ahead and place the IRF840
40:04
MOSFET for the DC motor onto the board. It's set up similarly to the ones for
40:09
the solenoids. I'll place the gate, drain, and source pins at columns 6, 7,
40:15
and 8, respectively. at row V. I'll go ahead and place the 10 kiloohm resistor
40:21
for it next to its gate pin at column 5, row V, and its other lead at column 1,
40:28
row V. I'll also connect a green jumper wire from the source pin at column 8,
40:34
row W, to column 1, row W. So, I'll go ahead and do that next.
40:41
[Music] Heat.
40:57
Heat.
41:14
[Music] Okay, here's what the board for the
41:20
solenoids and DC motor looks like now up to this point. Don't mind the capacitor there on the board. During all the
41:26
excitement of putting components on the board and soldering things, I mistakenly soldered the capacitor onto the board
41:33
instead of across the DC motor terminals. I did this because I was
41:38
using my own drawing as a reference, but realized later that I had drawn the capacitors shown on the board in the
41:45
drawing where the motor terminals were to go instead of showing it across the terminals of the motor.
41:52
So here we can see where our positive supply will come in to the pad here. And the solid core wire that was soldered
41:58
there for the positive supply on the board. The diode's cathode is soldered to that positive supply wire on the
42:05
underside of the board. And the anode of the diode runs to the drain of the first
42:10
RFP 3006 MOSFET. There's two of these MOSFETs, each for a separate solenoid.
42:17
At the source pin of the MOSFET, I've added a green solid core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper
42:23
wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. I've taken a 10 kiloohm resistor and have soldered one
42:30
of its leads to the gate of the MOSFET and soldered the other lead of the resistor to the negative supply of the
42:36
board. If I flip the board over, we can see where that negative supply is located. Noting the black sheathing
42:44
still left on that wire as a reference to the negative supply. We can also see
42:49
where the positive supply is located on the board. Noting the red sheathing still left on the positive supply wire
42:57
as a reference to the positive supply.
43:05
Flipping the board back over to the component side, we can now look at the setup for the next diode on the board
43:10
that is oriented in similar fashion as the previous one. Its cathode connected to the positive supply of the board and
43:17
its anode soldered to the drain of the second RFP30 N06 MOSFET.
43:28
At the source pin of this MOSFET, I've added a green solid core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper
43:35
wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. I've taken a 10 kiloohm resistor and have added one of
43:42
its leads to the gate of this second MOSFET and soldered the other lead of this resistor to the negative supply of
43:49
the board. Now, moving on to the IRF840
43:54
MOSFET for the DC motor. Again, you can see here that I had mistakenly soldered
44:00
this 0.1 microfarad capacitor here. That's meant to be soldered across the terminals of the DC motor. I'll desolder
44:07
this off the board later. I'll actually solder a JST connector on this board for the motor connection later in the build.
44:15
What I'll do is have one of the terminals of the JST connector go to the drain pin of this MOSFET. And the same
44:22
pin will make the connection for one of the two wires coming from the DC motor.
44:27
That connection is labeled as point M2 on the handdrawn schematic diagram. The
44:33
motor will have the 0.1 microfarad capacitor across its terminals. And the
44:38
other wire of the motor will make a connection to the other pin of the JST connector. This is labeled as point M1
44:46
on the drawing. and that will connect to the positive supply of the board.
44:51
As for the source pin of the IRF840 MOSFET, I've connected a green solid
44:57
core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. And
45:04
then I've taken a 10 koohm resistor and have soldered one of its leads to the gate of this MOSFET and soldered the
45:12
other lead of this resistor to the negative supply of the board.
45:22
Okay, earlier in all the excitement, I realized that I had put
45:31
the capacitor on the board and I didn't want it on the board. I just wasn't paying attention. I was too busy looking
45:38
at uh the schematic here. That's probably why I didn't draw it on
45:44
here originally, this capacitor, because I needed the capacitor to go directly across the
45:52
terminals of the motor. I want them to get as close I want to get this capacitor as close to the uh motor the
46:02
DC motor terminals as possible. So, now that I think about it, that's probably
46:08
why I didn't draw the capacitor in this rough draft of a schematic for this
46:15
project here. But just know that this capacitor here, although it does go
46:21
across the two motor terminals, M1 and M2, we want to get
46:27
the capacitor as close
46:32
to the motor terminals as we can. We want the
46:39
capacitor to be across like right up against this back end of this motor
46:46
where the terminals will go directly to
46:51
the terminals of the capacitor will go directly to the terminals of the uh motor. Now, this was the capacitor I
46:59
just took out of the board here, and it needs to go as close as it can. Now,
47:06
this one I'm not going to use it cuz the the terminals are too short now. But
47:11
I'll get another capacitor. And we want this capacitor to be
47:19
like such. I want it really close to the motor uh terminals. So, I'll get another
47:26
0.1 microfarad just like this one. And uh I'll end up putting the terminals
47:34
across the terminals of the motor just like that. But like I said, I removed this
47:40
capacitor. That's that
47:46
capacitor there. I removed it from where we had it before
47:51
on this board. And so it's gone. And now this jumper
48:00
wire, I don't need it. Although, uh, I do have this end of this jumper
48:06
wire, uh, helping me to connect between one of
48:12
the terminals of that plug,
48:18
this terminal here. I'm having this orange jumper wire now one side of it
48:23
help me connect from this terminal
48:29
to the this that's the terminal there the
48:35
jumper is in between here and all that needs to connect to that center pin of
48:41
the MOSFET which is the drain pin. So that the other side of that jumper
48:48
was right here. I just cut it off right down as close as I could get to
48:54
the board so it's not in the way. So, the jumper is really not performing a
49:01
typical jumper wire function except for helping me connect that terminal of this
49:07
connector pin where the motor will connect in here later to the uh drain
49:14
pin or center pin of this MOSFET. So, that's all that jumper wire is doing.
49:26
wire is doing. So, the only thing different now is that capacitor is no longer on the board. I did not want it
49:33
on there. I just wasn't paying attention. Uh, so we don't need the capacitor on
49:40
the board. We need it as close as we can get or directly across the terminals of
49:45
the motor. So, that's the only thing I I've updated on this board here.
49:51
And so the next thing I'm going to do is connect the capacitor across the
49:56
terminals of the motor. And uh
50:03
we'll get into some other the other stuff here.
50:12
Okay. I've gone ahead and soldered these other JST connectors to the board. Those white connectors you see. Starting from
50:19
the right side, we can see that there's a two pin JST connector. That connector
50:24
is for the X2 solenoid to be connected to. Its pins are soldered at rows C and
50:31
D on column 4. The middle two pin JST connector is for the X1 solenoid to be
50:38
connected to. Its pins are soldered at rows K and L, also on column 4. And the
50:46
left three pin JST connector is for the wire connections we'll make later for each of the gates of the MOSFETs. The
50:53
points labeled H, J, and N highlighted in yellow on the handdrawn schematic
50:59
diagram shown on your screen. That connector is to connect each gate to its
51:05
corresponding connection onto the Arduino shield board we made in section one of part six of this build, the
51:13
previous video to this one. So the labels H, J, and N on the drawing
51:18
correspond to the three pins of the three pin JST connector. And those pins
51:24
will get a wire connector we'll make later in the build plugged to them,
51:29
which we'll make connections to pins 7, 8, and 9 of the Arduino.
51:35
Next, I need to make all the jumper wire connections to the JST connectors. Later, I'll go ahead and solder a 0.1
51:42
microfarad capacitor across the terminals of the DC motor. And I got a new capacitor here because the terminals
51:49
of the other one were too short. So, this is the capacitor that I'm going to use.
51:56
Let's go ahead and get some work done. [Music]
52:17
[Applause] [Music]
52:38
Heat [Music]
52:53
Heat. Heat.
53:00
[Music]
53:15
Heat. Heat.
53:21
[Music]
53:30
[Music]
53:39
[Applause]
53:45
Okay, I have these connectors here. According to the drawing schematic,
53:52
this would be for plus x2 and minus x2. They go that's for the
53:59
x2 uh labeled solenoid. So these terminals
54:07
with the help of this yellow jumper wire and this yellow jumper wire. This one's attached to this pin. This yellow jumper
54:15
wire is attached to this pin. And I go across the diode here.
54:22
This is for solenoid X2. This one's for solenoid X1. Again, this terminal
54:30
is in line with this yellow jumper wire. This terminal goes to this yellow jumper
54:38
wire. And these terminals are go are across
54:44
this diode here. And then this three pin connector here
54:50
is for our H JN
54:56
uh points on the schematic the drawn the drawn handdrawn schematic.
55:03
So if I start at the H pin here, this pin is connected to this yellow jumper
55:10
wire here. And the end of this yellow jumper wire underneath the board is
55:15
connected to this uh terminal of the resistor which is also connected to the
55:23
gate pin of this MOSFET. This middle pin here represents our
55:32
J point or point J on the board in the drawn schematic. And that pin is
55:38
connected to this yellow jumper wire which is connected to this terminal of
55:44
this resistor which is connected to the gate of this MOSFET. And this pin here
55:50
represents point N on our handdrawn schematic. And
55:56
it's connected to this yellow jumper wire which loops over to here and loops
56:02
back around and connects to this uh terminal of this resistor here. And
56:08
again that resistor is attached to this gate to the gate of this MOSFET. So next
56:15
I'm going to So that means that this board is prepared
56:22
uh at least to have the two solenoids and the connections to the Arduino. We
56:29
still need to put the power supply on here. And we still need to Well, next
56:37
we're going to put the capacitor across the terminals of the DC
56:45
motor. So next I'm going to take this DC motor and I'm going to solder
56:55
the capacitor the 0.1 microfarad capacitor across the two terminals of this motor. And here again
57:05
is that capacitor. So I'm going to do that next.
57:17
[Music]
57:25
[Music]
57:33
Okay, now I got the capacitor across
57:38
the terminals of the motor. I got a few burn spots here, but that's okay. I
57:44
didn't I don't think I ruined anything. So, now the next thing to do is to put
57:52
connectors on the ends of the wires of the motor terminals. And I need to
57:59
make the wires for the connections for
58:04
the points on
58:09
for our HJN points on the board here. So I need to make the wire connect the uh
58:17
wires and then put the connectors three pin connectors on the ends of those
58:22
wires for both this board and for the board on the Arduino. So again now the
58:29
next thing to do is to put connectors on the ends of the wires of the motor terminals. And I need to make the wire
58:35
connector for the connections to the points H, J, and N on the three pin JST
58:41
connector. This will connect the gates of the MOSFETs to pins seven, eight, and nine of the Arduino. All that will have
58:48
to be done in the next video, though, because this one has already gotten pretty long. This has been section two
58:54
of part six. So, the next video will be section three for part six. I greatly
59:00
appreciate your attention and participation throughout this video and for this Albbot build series so far.
59:06
I'll see you on the next one. And remember to keep at it and stay motivated. Thanks for watching.
#Electronic Components